Headlight basics

There are several options available for the 2002.  Some are simple drop in solutions, some require additional modifications.

HEADLIGHT REMOVAL:  Removing the stock headlight is a simple task requiring only a screwdriver.  Although it might be possible to remove the headlight without removing the grill, I HIGHLY recommend you remove the grill prior.  When you drop the small headlight retaining screw into the abyss you will wish you had taken the 5 minutes to remove the grill first.

1. Although not necessary, I prefer to remove the negative lead from the battery any time I do electrical work on my car.  If you have a clock, stereo or other device that requires constant power you can leave the battery connected.
2. Insure the headlight switch is in the OFF position.
3. Remove the screws that hold each grill onto the car.  It is not necessary to remove the center grill.  NOTE: You might also have to unscrew the security thumb screw from behind the grill on each side if your car is equipped.
4. Open the hood and disconnect the electrical connector from the back of the bulb.  These connectors are often very difficult to remove and brittle from age, so be careful.
5. Both the headlight ring and the headlight itself, are designed to be installed in a particular position.  Notice the three screw positions in the headlight retaining ring.  They are not evenly spaced. The retaining ring will only go on one way.  The headlight is also 'keyed' and will only fit properly one way.  The writing on the headlight bulb should always be horizontal and right-side up.
6. There is a thin metal ring that holds the headlight into place.  The ring is attached with three small screws.  As you remove the screws hold the bulb to avoid it falling to the ground.
7. Remove and ring and carefull remove the bulb.  Notice the 'keys' that are made into the rim of the headlight.  They are designed to fit into corresponding notches in the headlight bucket. 

Installation is the reverse of removal.  Insure the 'keys' on the headlight fit into the notches in the headlight bucket.

STOCK: The stock 2002 headlights are 7" (178mm) round 'sealed beam' bulbs.  Most likely all sealed beam bulbs still in service today are also Halogen bulbs.  These bulbs are referred to as 'sealed beam' because the bulb and the housing are one piece.  When the bulb burns out the entire housing must be replaced.  This is the least expensive headlight option.  The stock headlight is rated at 55/65 watts, meaning each headlight draws 55 watts on low beam, and 65 watts on high beam.

 Notice the bulb is part of the housing and not removable.

H4 HEADLIGHTS: Unlike sealed beam headlights, the H4 housing and bulb are separate components.  A standard 7" round H4 housing has the same dimensions as a sealed beam and can be swapped as easily as replacing a stock headlight.

H4 on the left, sealed beam on the right. 

STANDARD H4 HOUSING

Standard H4 housing and bulb removed.

 Standard H4 housing from the back.

 Standard H4 housing from the front.

Standard H4 housing profile.

FLAT LENS H4 HOUSING WITH CITY LIGHT

H4 housing with flat lens and city light from the back.

H4 housing with flat lens and city light from the front.

H4 housing with flat lens and city light profile.

NOTE:  If you decide to go with a housing that has a city light or any other options (i.e. halo effect) make sure they will fit properly in the 2002 headlight bucket. I had to trim my headlight bucket slightly to make room for the electrical connections to the city lights.

 Headlight bucket trimmed to clear city light electrical connections.

I prefer the look and beam pattern of flat lens European (E code) H4 housing.  I also like the integrated city light.  If you purchase these housings, make sure you get housings designed for cars that drive on the correct side of the road.  The city light is a small secondary bulb that must be wired separately.  I wired mine to come on with the parking lights.  The effect is something similar to modern DRL (Daytime running lights.) 

NOTE:  I've converted my European turn signal housings to use a dual filament bulbs.  Dim for parking lights, bright for turn signals. 

H4 HEADLIGHT BULBS:  There are countless bulb options for H4 housing.  Choose the color and brightness you desire.  I prefer bright white (6000K).  Check you local laws concerning color.  

Do NOT get high wattage bulbs.  The headlights are a significant current draw on an old electrical system with a weak charging system.  Additionally the headlight wiring is not designed for high current bulbs and you may burn up your wiring harness!

Anyone who's worked on a classic British car will understand this ;-)

Do not touch H4 bulbs with your bare hands.  The bulbs get extremely hot when operating.  The oil from you skin creates a hot spot which can reduce the life of the bulb.  Use tissue paper or surgical gloves when handling.

Standard H4 bulbs.

LED bulbs

I recently changed from standard H4 bulbs to LED bulbs.  LED lighting is the latest and greatest lighting technology.  Although LED bulbs are more expensive than standard H4 bulbs they offer two main advantages.  LED bulbs use less current and produce more light.  The LED bulbs I installed are only 30 watts and are incredibly bright.

Low beam - 30 watt LED bulbs in flat lens H4 housings.

HID bulbs.  I do not personally recommend HID bulbs for H4 housings.  HID bulbs are the most expensive.  HID bulb requires a high voltage transformer which must be mounted externally for each headlight.  Most retrofit HID bulbs that I experienced were not intended/designed for H4 housing and therefore do not have the correct beam pattern.  They are very bright and can blind oncoming traffic.